Coffee shortage seen in '04, SMCIC warns

DOMESTIC supply for coffee may be short by up to 15,500 metric tons in 2004 if no drastic measures will be undertaken to rehabilitate the industry, Southern Mindanao Coffee Industry Council (SMCIC) vice chair Lucio Servañez warned on Tuesday.

According to Servañez, last year's supply deficit for coffee reached 14,000 metric tons due to massive conversion of coffee plantations into banana, pineapple and vegetable lands.

"There was about 60 percent reduction of coffee farmlands last year compared to three or four years ago dahil nalulugi na masyado ang mga farmers (because the farmers are losing too much)," Servañez shared.

Other reasons for the continuing decline may be attributed to the ongoing insurgency in some parts of Mindanao resulting to damaged coffee trees, droughts, and the sudden drop of the crop's buying price in the market.

Based on records furnished by the Council, total harvest of coffee in the country reached only 35,000 in 2001, while the demand stood at 50,500.

This further results to a 15,500 metric tons shortage of coffee supply during the period.

A year after, the deficit slightly reduced to only 14,000 MT, while this year's projected shortage is pegged at 14,500 MT.

There are at least 19,000 hectares of identified potential areas to be planted with coffee in the region, as indicated by Nestle Philippines in Tagum City.

Presently, however, areas planted with the crop are pegged at no more than 7,000 hectares by both small farmers and big-time coffee growers in the whole region.

SMCIC, however, has committed to plant a total of 10,000 coffee seedlings covering 50 hectares for the first year of its project.

The figures are to double every year up to five years, and are expected to reach 1,000,000 seedlings covering 250 hectares in 2006.

The Department of Agriculture (DA) in the region through its regional technical director Romulo Palcon vowed to extend support to the coffee farmers by providing technology transfer, and conducting seminars and trainings to coffee growers to increase their productivity. CEU

(October 17, 2003 issue)

http://www.sunstar.com.ph/static/dav/2003/10/17/
bus/coffee.shortage.seen.in.04.smcic.warns.html

COFFEE

COFFEE

A Sip of Excellence

"Coffee is the source of happiness and wit," said King Louis XIV who after experiencing coffee's excellent taste and distinctive aroma began to recognize the value of it.

A sip of coffee reminisces significant events which shaped many a nation's history. It has chronicled historical records that date back to as far as 1200 A.D. when coffee became a very important crop in the economy of many nations.

In the Philippines, the coffee industry began in 1740 during the Spanish regime. It is considered one of the high-value crops in the local and foreign markets. Coffee is among the top ten agricultural crops in terms of value.

Coffee registered a total production of 123,934 metric tons valued at P6,818.84 million in 1995. Today, we are exporting to ICO and non-ICO member countries which include Japan, Singapore, West Germany, Netherlands, Malaysia, Muscat Oman, United Arab Emirates, Pakistan and U.S.A. These countries alone account for 97 percent of the total Philippine coffee export.

AGRONOMIC CHARACTERISTICS

Coffee trees require a rich, moist loose, well-drained soil best composed of organic matter, decomposed mold, and disintegrated volcanic rock; a well-distributed rainfall of about 40 to 70 inches annually with peak wet season' high humidity; seven hours of sunshine daily; and plenty of mist and moderate winds.

Coffee trees vary greatly in sizes from dwarf trees to thick-trunked forest giants twenty feet or more in tropic. Generally they are restricted to areas with a medium average annual temperature of 70^oF, not lower than 55^oF and much above 80^oF.

VARIETIES

Arabica is characterized by wavy leaf margin, light green leaf color, thin leaves, pulp and parchment, known as " kapeng tagalog." Yields 500-1,000 kg of clean dry coffee beans per hectare. It could be grown productively in cooler places with an elevation ranging from 1,200 to 1,800 meters above sea level.

Robusta is characterized by large umbrella shaped growth with thinner leaves which have more wavy margins. The berries are borne in heavy cluster with the pulp and parchment. Yields 1,200 kg of clean dry coffee beans per hectare. It could be grown in areas with an elevation ranging from 600 to 1,200 meters above sea level.

Excelsa has wide leaves that are thicker than Robusta but thinner and smoother and more rounded than Liberica with smooth edge. Young leaves are usually shiny with bronze violet color. The berries are borne in heavy cluster, varying in size and usually bigger than Arabica but smaller than Liberica. Pulp and parchment are thicker than the Leberica. Yields 1,000 kg of clean dry coffee bean per hectare. It could be grown from sea level to 600 meters above sea level.

Liberica is locally known as "kapeng barako" because it produces the biggest berry. It is rounded and are borne signly or in small clusters. Has thicker leaves than Excelsa and twice as long as Arabica. The pulp is thick and the parchment is more woody. It also characterized a very strong pharmocopical taste and flavor. It is tolerant to drought and grows in a wider type of soil. Yields 1,000 kg. Of clan dry coffee beans per hectare.

TECHNOLOGY

Seed Preparation

• Coffee is grown from seeds;
• Gather seeds from disease and pest-free, high yielding trees;
• Grow coffee plants in the nursery to produce better seedlings. They nursery be located in the plantation or nearby and accessible to water supply;
• Three-fourth kg (i.e. 750 gm) of quality seeds is enough to plant a hectare;
• A 50% allowance of seeds must be considered for ungerminated seeds, poor seedlings and for replanting;
• Select viable seeds, stir berries in a bucket of water and remove floaters. Those that sink are the good ones;
• Remove pulp by hand or pulping machine, then soak beans in water for 24 hours to hasten the removal of mucilage;
• Wash beans and discard floaters. Air dry in well-ventilated room for least 4 days;
• Keep dried parchment in cool dry place or mix with charcoal to preserve its viability;
• Germination bed must be 1 meter wide and of convenient length. To avoid flooding, raise bed 15 cm from ground level;
• A 1 x 20 m plot can accommodate one ganta of seeds;
• Sow seeds on shallow rows at ¾ inch deep and cover with fine soil;
• Water the seedbed regularly but not too wet and partially shade plants from sunlight;
• This out and prick seedlings (transplant to another seedbed/plastic bags) or when 2-3 pairs of leaves have developed.

Vegetable Propagation

• Coffee can also be propagated asexually;
• Clone is used for coffee propagation. It is a part of a plant that is made to reproduce an offspring which carries all the qualities of its parents.
• Split lengthwise into two halves of a fingersized vertical shoot of about one foot long with 4-6 nodes to produce a clone. Partially cut leaves before splitting;
• Set modal cutting in germination box 1x2 inches apart and 1 inch deep, then place boxes in germination chamber. Nodal cuttings will produce roots and shoots within 45 days;
• Prick seedlings into individual plastic bags with soil.
  Full-grown seedling with 4-6 pairs of leaves could be attained within 6-8 months;
• Coffee plants raised from nodal cuttings bear fruits 18 months after transplanting, earlier than plants grown from seeds.

Establishment of Plantation

Intensive clearing is necessary for newly opened areas (forest area). Plow and harrow twice open field to check weed growth. Mark places where holes are to be dug. Recommended spacing are as follows:

Variety	Distance in Meters
ARABICA	3 x 1 to 3 x 2 m
	2 x 2 x 2 x 3 m double row

Variety	Distance in Meters
ROBUSTA	3 x 1.5 to 3 x 3m
	2 x 2 x 2 x 4m double row

Variety	Distance in Meters
Liberica & Excelsa	4 x 5 to 5 x 5.5m

Transplanting

Coffee seedlings are ready for transplant when 6 pairs of leaves have been fully developed and with no lateral branches yet. Dig holes and transplant in the field at the start of the rainy season. This will give sufficient time for young plants to establish roots before dry season sets in. Dig hole wide and deep enough to accommodate ball of earth with roots intact. Return topsoil in the hole, then add tablespoons phosporous fertilizer, and mix thoroughly.

Fertilization

The general recommendation for non-bearing trees in the absence of soil and tissue analysis, is an equal amount of NPK and ammonium sulfate or urea from 250-300 grams per tree per year; and for bearing trees (7 years and above) 1 kilo of 14-14 per tree per year plus ures sidedressed at the rate of 300 grams per tree per year.

Non-bearing trees (1-3 years old) make shallow canal furrow 5 cm deep around the plant; place recommended fertilizer in continuous band and cover with soil.

Bearing trees (7 years old)-localized placement is recommended for sloping land. Apply fertilizer in holes or trenches made around trees between outside of the crown and onehalf meter from the base. Broadcast fertilizer 0.5m for level land.

Pruning

Removal of unnecessary branches (excess, old and dead branches) and undesirable sprouts. Pruning regulates the height of the plants, facilitates harvesting and other field operations, promotes better aeration and light penetration. This is best done before general flowering or after harvest.

Common Pests and Control

Coffee Berry Borer most destructive and hardest to control. Attacks all stages of fruit after berries become mungo-size. Infested young berries turn from normal green color to yellow orange and shortly afterwards, fruit falls prematurely. Presence of empty or partially filled fruits underneath tree is a sure sign of infestation.

Coffee Leaf folder larvae feed on leaves and sometime attack flowers and fruits. Adult is a small moth with light brown forewings. The eggs are laid in clusters on leaves. Development period is 5-6 weeks.

Control: Collect and destroy infested berries before and after harvest. Pick up all berries, including those that fall on the ground, to eliminate breeding and feeding sites of insects. Spray Endosulfan at recommended rates at 14 to 21 days interval or 4 to 5 times spraying during fruiting season. The first spraying should be done when the berries attain the size of a mungbean seed.

Common Diseases and Control

Coffee Rust the most prevalent and destructive disease of coffee, Small, yellowish spots appear on lower surface of leaves; as spots enlarge, powdery yellow to orange spores are produced. Affected leaves drop and tree may die. To prevent, use resistant strains, spray susceptible varieties with copper fungicides at 2-3 week intervals at start of heavy rains.

Die-Back is characterized by drying of branches and twigs from to and downwards. Appearance of spots with concentric lines on both surfaces of seedlings, twigs, and berries. If severe affected, leaves fall, twig and branches dry. To control, maintain vigor of trees by fertilizing with the right kind and amount of nutrients at proper time; regulate plant growth to prevent overbearing by pruning and/or shade.

HARVESTING

Maturity of berries is 6 to 8 months after blooming but varies on the environmental factors from region to region. In Mindanao, Arabica flower in January to May and berries are harvested in August to December. In Luzon, coffee trees bloom just after the first heavy rains in May and June, Arabica and Robusta berries are harvested in late December to March; Excelsa and Liberica later.

Individually pick berries (i.e priming) to avoid presence of pedicels. For quality beans, harvest only matured berries (i.e. berries turn red from its ground color.)

http://www.da.gov.ph/tips/coffee.html

A tour of bean to brew

Text & photos by THERESE J. CAMET

On the average, �coffee drinkers� spend 30 to 60 minutes a day relishing their favorite brew during coffee break while real �coffee lovers� dedicate just about all of their time supervising their coffee trees!

Recently, we had the chance to visit these so-called ultimate "coffee lovers" in Amadeo, Cavite, as the National Coffee Development Board (NCDB), a private organization designed to develop, promote and save the coffee industry, took members of the press on a "Bean�to�Brew" tour.

Since Amadeo is a 60 kilometers journey south of Metro Manila, we had the chance to learn more about the country�s coffee industry during the two-hour bus ride from NCDB coffee experts Guillermo Luz and Chit Juan.

"We organized this tour to give you hands-on experience of the local coffee industry, which we are committed to revive. We want to show you the different facets of coffee from bean to brew so you can fully appreciate the current status of the industry," said Guillermo Luz, director of the Makati Business Club.

"I�m not a coffee farmer, I don�t even own a coffee shop. I�m not a trader or anything, I�m from the Makati Business Club� but I�m a big coffee drinker, and I just felt that we have to do something about our coffee industry," Luz continued.

Coffee growing in the Philippines started as early as the 1740s when a Franciscan friars brought Arabian coffee beans and planted them at the convent�s backyard. Since then, Filipino farmers from Cavite cultivated the trees and in less than ten years, coffee became a valued commodity in provinces throughout the nation.

Eventually, the Philippines became the fourth top coffee exporter in the world, earning revenues up to $140 million a year on coffee exports. Coffee farmers even had the power to dictate coffee prices.

However, things changed in the 1980s and the Philippines slipped down to number 14, earning only $500,000 (from coffee) annually.

According to Chit Juan, director of the Figaro Foundation Corp., the Philippine coffee industry has a shortfall of 35,000 metric tons of coffee every year.

"We consume about 55,000 metric tons of coffee annually but our annual production is only 20,000 metric tons, so we have to import coffee to meet the demand," shared Juan.

Still, NCDB believes that there is hope in reviving the industry.

"We have good coffee. Our coffee can be at par with the world�s best. The Philippines is one of the few countries which produces the four varieties of coffee beans� Robusta, Excelsa, Arabica and Liberica," stated Luz.

To revitalize the industry, NCDB, the Amadeo Tourism Council, Caf� Amadeo Development Cooperative, Figaro Foundation, Nestle Philippines and the provincial government of Cavite have come up with "Adopt a Farm".

Formerly known as "Leisure Farms", "Adopt a Farm" intends to turn idle or under-utilized lands into productive ones.

"This concept should encourage the private sector to participate in the revitalization of the Amadeo coffee industry and also to generate employment among our people," said Amadeo Mayor Albert "OJ" Ambagan, Jr., during the press briefing at the municipality of Amadeo.

According to Ambagan, Amadeo originally had 4,000 hectares of productive coffee farms but now they are left with only 2,300 hectares.

"We want to revitalize the 1,700 hectares we lost through this program," Ambagan said.

With an initial cost of R10,000 per hectare, interested parties may start adopting a farm.

"Interested planters just have to come to our office for a brief orientation. Then they will be given a tour of the farm. After signing a contract, the adoptee may start clearing the land and begin planting," explained Ambagan.

The local government of Amadeo likewise provides technical assistance and seminars for the farmers.

"This is a good investment and a great experience especially for those who have no experience in farming because they will not only be planting coffees but different crops as well because we do intercropping," said Ambagan.

Major Ambagan and his constituents took us to "The Barako Farm" in Brgy. Dagatan for lunch.

This 1.7-hectare, originally owned by Mayor Ambagan�s family was adopted by Chit Juan of the Figaro Foundation Corp. in August 2002 which aims to revive the "Barako" coffee�a generic name given to all Batangas coffee. Actually, Barako is a Philippine Liberica known for its strong taste and pungent odor.

After lunch, we visited some of the adopted farms in Brgy. Banay Banay, Brgy. Halang, Brgy. Pangil, Brgy. Bucal and Brgy. Talon. Other farms have just been cleared up while some have already been planted with coffee and different kinds of crops like papaya, eggplants, pineapples, tomatoes, peppers and root crops.

Most adoptees are from Manila and only come to Amadeo on weekends.

"I only come here on Saturdays or Sundays after I play golf. I have three assistants who take care of my farm while I�m in Manila," said Melchor Ocampo, a manager in Prudential Life leasing the smallest adopted farm (6,000 sqm.) in Brgy. Banay Banay.

On the other hand, Rechilda Capate who owns a preschool in Antipolo takes care of her adopted 1.2-ha. farm in Brgy. Pangil together with her sons.

"It�s fun, me and my sons come here to work on the farm whenever we�re free and see what needs to be done here," said Rechilda.

Besides the experience and pleasure these farmers get from "leisure farming", they also make money from their crops.

"Our coffee trees are still young. It takes at least 18 months before it can produce cherries, but we were already able to harvest 5 tons of tomatoes in a span of 3 � months which we sold for R20-R25 per kilo. It wasn�t much but it�s a good start," shared Louie Hieras, a farm adoptee in Brgy. Halang.

Next, we explored the "real" coffee farms in Baryo Bucal which occupy a sprawling 30�hectare land planted with 30 to 40�year old coffee trees.

Our guides took us to Beneficio Coffee Mill in Brgy. 1 to see how coffee beans are milled. Nicholas Matti, NCDB co�chairperson explained us how the equipment works.

Since coffee making won�t be complete without roasting the beans, we went to Silang, adjacent to Amadeo, to check out the Gourmet�s roasting facilities.

Last stop was Gourmet Caf� to taste the finished product�hot brewed coffee from Cavite!

Mayor Ambagan and the NCDB are inviting the public to attend the third "Pahimis Coffee Festival" in Amadeo on Friday and Saturday, Feb. 13�14. For inquiries, call Amadeo at (046)413-3010/0917-3273131 or NCDB at 751-1145/751-1143.

http://www.mb.com.ph/issues/2004/02/12/SCTY200402122039.html

The Philippine Coffee Industry: A Primer

FACT: Two hundred years ago, the Philippines was one of the world's top coffee producers. Today, we produce only .012% of the worlds' supply.

THE COFFEE BELT
Circling the equator between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn is an area called the "Coffee Belt". Here there are only two seasons a year, and the weather is temperate with just the right mix of heat, humidity and cold that is so perfect for the growth of coffee trees. Thus the name "Coffee Belt."

Coffee is the second most traded commodity in the world - second only to petroleum. Thus, the countries within the coffee belt have taken to harvesting the highly valued crop, and for many, coffee has become one of their biggest income earners. About 200 years ago, the Philippines was on the list of the world's top coffee producers--we were once the fourth largest coffee producing nation.

Today, we produce only .012% of the world's coffee supply.

AN HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE
250 years ago, Spanish friars brought coffee over to the Philippines, turning much of the country's highlands into coffee farms. After about 150 years of getting rich on the world's addiction to caffeine, a blight hit the country. "Coffee Rust" as the infestation was called, wiped out many of the Philippine coffee farms. Seeing we were unable to keep up with the world demand, the Latin American countries saw the opportunity and took over - Brazil in particular.

Today, only two countries hold sway over the world's coffee prices: the United States, who is the top buyer; and Brazil, who is the top producer, supplying 30 %of the world's demand. What happens in Brazil determines what happens to coffee trading prices around the world. If not for some unfortunate twist of nature, that power could have belonged to the Philippines.

SURVIVING THE BLIGHT
The blight, however, was not the end of our coffee glory days. As soon as our coffee farms got back on their feet, we moved back into being one of the world's top producers. Up until 1986, the Philippines was earning at least US$150 million a year in coffee exports. Coffee had always been one of our biggest dollar earners -- up until 10 years ago.

Today, we make only around US$500,000 a year from coffee and only 10% of our yearly harvest is exported. The fact that our coffee production has dropped is odd considering the local demand for coffee increases by 3% each year. The local demand for the year 2000 was 60 million kilograms. Production, however, was a mere 45 million kilograms.

THE DEATH OF AN INDUSTRY
What happened? Simple. It is no longer profitable for many of our coffee farmers to farm coffee. Why? For several reasons. One: They have absolutely no control over their coffee prices. The world price dictates local price, as do the big local buyers, thus there is no way the farmers can guarantee themselves a profit. Two: Much of what was once rich coffee land has been declared industrial, commercial or residential land. When this happened, many of our farmers couldn't cope with the increase in land taxes so they sold off their land.

Then there is the technology problem. In many coffee coutries, coffee production is largely mechanized, cutting down on time and labor cost. In the Philippines, except for the larger coffee farms, nearly everything is done by hand. It is labor and time intensive. The smaller farmers cannot afford even the most basic machines like hullers.

Infrastructure is another problem. There are not enough farm-to-market roads. Thus, getting the yield to the markets is difficult.

As a result, many farmers whose families have planted coffee for generations have sold their land or have switched to planting more profitable crops.

Recently, another problem has emerged. With the lifting of the ban on coffee importation, local farmers are worried that that may put a severe dent on the demand for locally-produced coffee.

GETTING THE PHILIPPINES
BACK ON THE BELT
In the last ten years, we have lost about 80,000 hectares of coffee farms. Only about 120,000 hectares of productive coffee land remain, mostly concentrated in the mountains of Batangas, Bukidnon, Benguet, Cavite, Kalinga Apayao, Davao and Claveria.

Sixty to eighty thousand coffee families are left but their numbers continue to fall. It is to help these families, and make coffee a major dollar earner for the country once more that the Figaro Coffee Company created the Figaro Foundation Corporation. Its thrust is very simple - boost production and provide aid to our last remaining coffee families.

TURNING THE TIDE
Since its birth, the Figaro Foundation Corporation has spearheaded many projects aimed at getting the Philippines back on the belt.

A continuing communications campaign has made more and more Filipinos aware of our coffee industry's plight and the Foundation's efforts. As a result, many land holders have switched crops, or turned idle land into new coffee farms.

In 2000, Barako became the focus of the Foundation's efforts, as a result, the then nearly extinct Barako has become a staple in many local coffee shops and restaurants, as well as Filipino homes.

While "Barako" has become a generic name for all coffee from Batangas, real Barako refers to Philppine Liberica and is known for its particularly strong taste, powerful body, and a distinctly pungent odor. It takes its name from the Tagalog word for wild boar. These creatures are rather fond of dining on the plant's leaves and berries.

Barako has an annual export volume of 1,200 bags valued at US$0.15 million. Most of it goes to Saudi Arabia.

CAVITE -- THE CENTER OF A NEW BEGINNING
In the quiet hills of Cavite, much has already been done towards the rehabilitation of our coffee industry. As proof of what is possible: The national average yield is ½ tons per hectare, or 2 kilograms of green beans per tree every harvest. Since coffee is harvested once a year, those are also the stats per year. In Cavite however, where programs have been implemented to boost production, the average coffee tree now yields 3 tons per hectare -- six times the national average! That boosts production up to 12 kilograms a tree, and a whopping 1,200 cups of brewed coffee from a single tree in a single harvest!

Today, the Figaro Foundation Corporation is working in close partnership with the Municipal Government of Amadeo in Cavite, and the Cavite State University (CavSU) -- the National Research Center for Coffee.

Together, the three bodies have launched and are cooperatively maintaining a Barako Pilot Farm. Nestled in the lush Cavite hills is a 1.7 hectare property lent to the project by ex-Mayor Tik Ambagan of Amadeo. The farm implements new farming technology and good farming practices, and is planted solely to Barako from seedlings raised by Dr. Andy Mojica of CavSU. Barako was chosen for this project to support the Foundation’s project to save it from extinction. Barako also fetches a higher market price than Robusta -- the variety most commonly grown in Cavite. This project is projected to increase the income of coffee farmers from P15,000 per hectare per harvest to as high as P85,000 per hectare per harvest.

At the helm of this project are Mayor OJ Ambagan, the Municipal Mayor of Amadeo; Councilor Rene Tongson of the Municipality of Amadeo; Dr. Andy Mojica, National Team Leader - National Coffee Development Board; and Chit Juan, CEO - Figaro Coffee Company.

Plans are underway for other activities. The Figaro Foundation Corporation is constantly in search of good ideas and opportunities to save both Barako and the local coffee industry. We need as much support as we can get. The country needs as much support as you can give.

http://www.savethebarako.org/primer.htm

Revealing coffee industry's secret

Published on Page B2-1 of the February 20, 2006 issue of the Philippine Daily Inquirer

BAGUIO CITY--MONTAÑOSA COFFEE CO. is a year-old producer of specialty coffee that is arguably the only homegrown distributor of indigenous "Cordillera arabica" beans today.

But the firm plans to stamp its imprint on the country's coffee industry when it blows the lid off the trade's most closely guarded secret.

Alipio Alonzo Castillo III, Monta-osa's founder, says the firm is leading a campaign to free the Cordillera arabica from profiteers, unwelcome commercialization and irresponsible production by empowering Ibaloi, Kankanaey, Kalinga and Ifugao coffee farmers with new technologies and a brand that adds value to their crops.

"For decades, [top producers of coffee in the Philippines have monopolized the supply of] their best arabica beans which they buy raw from poor farmers in the Cordillera. [This condition thrives] because [farmers] are unaware that their arabica beans have been acknowledged by world experts as [one of the] best flavors in the world," he says.

"Save the Cordillera Arabica" is not yet a byword here, although Monta-osa is trying to build a brand image by labeling their produce according to their origins--Benguet Brew, Sagada Shade-Grown Beans, Ifugao Limited Blend and Kalinga Dark Roast.

"Our campaign will break the silence about arabica. We will tell the farmers that their crops are worth more than what they now sell for, and we will help them produce better quality beans for a bigger market so they will no longer be the big companies' secret," he says.

But it's a secret that the industry itself wants to finally unveil.

Early this month, Pacita Juan, co-chair of the National Coffee Development Board alongside Negros Coffee & Grains president Nicholas Matti, led a team of German experts through the lush manmade forest inside the Coromina property in Tublay, Benguet to showcase its coffee plantations as one of the country's "best practices" in organic food production.

Juan, also chief executive officer of the Figaro Coffee Co., says showing off the forest is stage one of a grand industry plan to harness organic coffee from the Cordillera highlands, by generating a modern and profitable market chain for coffee farmers.

The Figaro newsletter describes arabica as "the most widely known coffee [that is] considered to be the more aromatic and superior in flavor to the robusta beans," which is more acidic due to its higher caffeine content.

Juan says coffee here matures under the best of conditions. The cold climate allows coffee beans to mature gradually, nurtured by high altitudinal humidity, premium sunlight and mountain soil. Most arabica trees here also grow under thick forest cover, which lengthens the maturity period.

Juan says locally grown arabica is also precious because backyard tree farms in the Cordillera can only produce 1,725 metric tons. The Philippines has a yearly supply shortfall of 35,000 metric tons, and 90 percent of what is local produced for the market is robusta.

Figaro has spearheaded a campaign to revive the Philippine Liberica bean, or barako, but since 2004, it had also launched a marketing campaign for organic coffee, according to Zarah Perez, who organizes Cordillera cooperatives for the Figaro Coffee Foundation.

But on their first foray into Benguet, they were forced to confront some sins of the past.

As early as the 1970s, big coffee chains and manufacturers solicited coffee supplies from local farmers along the so-called Mountain Trail, only to drop them when they failed to supply the firms with beans according to specifications, Castillo says.

The Mountain Trail is a reference to Halsema Highway, which leads to coffee farms in Benguet, Mt. Province and Ifugao. Perez has also been negotiating with coffee farmers in Kalinga.

Castillo says arabica was probably introduced to the region when Spaniards began foraging for gold in Benguet, but coffee never became a traditional crop, and is thus grown only because coffee trees flourish in the mountains.

Government tried to reopen this marketing chain through special agricultural projects like the Central Cordillera Agricultural Program (Cecap), says Jorge Salinas, a University of the Philippines Baguio political science instructor, who wrote a paper on the local coffee trade.

But technologies and training in agro-management were "imposed, rather than taught to cooperatives," Salinas says, and a supply group that was revived "simply collapsed back to idleness when no one was looking."

Juan says farmers began to respond to Figaro when it started to buy the crops at mainstream prices.

"Ganyan naman ang Filipino farmers. They need a model because they always say, 'Oh, no. Here's another bright idea.' But when they actually saw us buying the organically grown coffee, well, Zarah [Perez] is now more popular here than Sharon Cuneta," she says.

Figaro's presence is meant to jumpstart a region-wide organic food consciousness, Juan says, but getting organic certification for Cordillera coffee will accelerate the expansion of modern arabica farms here.

The German Development Service is interested in providing organic certification for most indigenous Filipino farms here, which are "organic by default," because farmers are unable to invest in chemical fertilizers for coffee trees that previously had no economic value, said Roland Ferstl, a German coffee expert who is helping Figaro in training local farmers.
Inquirer Northern Luzon Bureau

http://money.inq7.net/features/view_features.
php?yyyy=2006&mon=02&dd=20&file=1

Barako Coffee Hits Top Note In Philippine Food And Coffee Festival

The world-famous Barako coffee highlights "Flavors of the Philippines," a Philippine Food and Coffee Festival on June 11, 2004 at The Brasserie, 39/F, Splendor Hotel, Kaohsiung, Taiwan. A mini-exhibition on June 11 to 13 at The Court, adjacent to The Brasserie, promises a sampling of Philippine coffeee, amidst the showcase of trade, tourism, and employment services exhibitors.

Visitors and guests to the festival will be welcomed by the strong, pungent aroma of freshly-brewed Barako coffee upon entering the hotel's lobby and restaurants. Barako coffee, along with other coffee varieties, will be featured in various coffee brews and concoctions that will surely delight and conquer the senses. The Coffee Festival offers a fitting accompaniment to the savory flavors of Filipino cuisine, and it also serves as a venue to showcase the country's efforts to regain its niche on the global coffee marketplace.

Behind the Barako label, which is the flagship coffee variety of the Philippines, there lies the rich history of Philippine coffee, which is as flavorful and robust as the coffee brew itself.

A Brief History of Coffee in the Philippines

With the colonization of the Philippines by the Spaniards more than two centuries ago, they brought with them coffee, which they planted into the country's highlands, turning them into coffee plantations. The perfect mix of heat, humidity, and cold, plus the two-season (wet and dry) tropical climate, made the cultivation of coffee thrive in the Philippines.

Coffee growing became so profitable for the country that the Philippines became the fourth largest coffee-producing nation in the 19th century. At that time, the country was exporting more than US$150 million worth of coffee worldwide. Coffee enjoyed immense popularity as the crop of choice but the euphoria was cut short by "Coffee Rust," a blight or infestation, which virtually wiped out the Philippine coffee industry. Unable to keep up with worldwide demand, Latin American countries eventually took over, and have since retained their stronghold on the global coffee market.

As the Philippines faces stiff global competition today, reviving the Philippine coffee industry has been an uphill battle ever since. Dedicated farmers, processes, distributors, and exporters recognize the surging demand for coffee worldwide. With so many coffee varieties, and exciting coffee concoctions, the appeal of coffee transcend borders and nationalities. Reinventing the Barako has never been more timely and more opportune.

Getting the Philippines Back on The Global Coffee Map Barako coffee is the generic name for all coffee from Batangas, a province located in southern Luzon. But real Barako is actually Philippine Liberica and is known for its particularly strong taste, powerful body, and a distinctly pungent odor. It was named after a wild boar, called "barako," which regularly feasts on the plant's leaves and berries.

Barako is the only indigenously Philippine bean, which thrive in the country's tropical climate with relatively abundant rainfall and gentle winds. In fact, Barako (or Liberica), is a rare and exotic variety as it grows in only 3 of the 70 coffee-producing countries around the world. While many think that Barako is a non-commercial variety, its superb taste and rarity, however, would surely make an impact in the competitive coffee arena. Sadly, the Barako is on its way to extinction, as more and more coffee farmers are switching to other plant crops, or have sold off their coffee farms.

"Save the Barako," is one of battlecries of the Figaro Foundation Corporation, which was established to boost production and provide aid to the country's last remaining coffee growers. True enough, with a continuing communications campaign that involve awareness programs, special events, new plantings, research, and marketing of the said variety, great inroads have been made in order to pull the Barako out of the brink of extinction, in just four short years. The launch of the "Barako Blend," helped fund this project and continues to support an ongoing information campaign.

The Figaro Foundation has been at the forefront of helping the local coffee industry, and putting the country back on the map of the world's top coffee producing nations. Its initial efforts were geared towards raising public awareness about the state and potential of the domestic coffee industry. It has successfully pioneered in helping the Barako recover from the verge of extinction, and is doing currently working with both government and non-government entities to help revitalize the Philippines' coffee industry.

Figaro Foundation is working very closely with the Philippine National Coffee Development Board (PNCDB). The PNCDB is an industry association dedicated to developing and promoting the Philippine Coffee Industry by providing research, technical assistance, and credit programs for development, expansion, rehabilitation, and rejuvenation of coffee farms, millers and roasters; and marketing and promotion of coffee for domestic and export markets.

As part of its efforts to tap the Taiwanese export market, Figaro Coffee Company has partnered with the Manila Economic and Cultural Office (MECO) Trade and Investment Center, and the Philippine Department of Trade and Industry. Witness and celebrate the launch of the Barako blend at the Philippines' Coffee Festival at "Flavors of the Philippines," Kaohsiung.

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